09/02/04 Report: "Trans-Sierra Crossing, Part 2"

The second day dawned with the Shadow making his final
appearance, silently filling his water bottles in the
creek and sitting on his pack in our midst.  He headed
off in front of us and was not seen again.  We left
Ferguson Creek and made for Roaring River Ranger
Station.  I was hoping to get a glimpse of Mt. Brewer
to the east but the view was blocked by the steep
walls of Cloud Canyon.  William Brewer was the chief
field geologist for the Whitney Survey of 1860-64 and
made many early ascents of Sierra peaks as well as
writing about his experiences in his fine book UP AND
DOWN CALIFORNIA.  I was the sweeper this morning,
afforded the luxury of walking alone far behind the
group, and I sat and talked with the lady ranger at
the station for a while.  She told me one of her
horses had been killed in a fall on a section of the
trail ahead.  



The Whaleback from Big Wet Meadow

The trail went up Cloud Canyon along the Roaring
River for many miles, mostly in the woods and
occasionally emerging into a broad wet meadow.  I came
upon a tree with engraved names and the date of 1914. 
One of the clients told me later that she saw a bear
running into the trees.  We stopped for lunch at a
pleasant site on the river where a long natural
waterslide plunged into a crystal clear pool.  Toward
the end of the day we arrived at Big Wet Meadow, which
afforded us the first spectacular view thus far.  From
the opposite end of the meadow rises the Whaleback, an
imposing monolith of granite some 2000 feet above the
river.  The cameras came out and pictures taken.  By
now members of the group were getting tired and we
still had several miles to go and 1500 vertical feet
to gain.  Jan and I realized we would not make our
goal of Colby Lake and would have to improvise on a
campsite.  The terrain along “Colby Creek”, on the
east flank of the Whaleback, looked tight and steep on
the map; not an ideal place to find four or five flat
tent sites.  

We chugged our way up lots of switchbacks and the
group spread out along the trail.  I went on ahead to
start scoping out potential campsites and presently
came to a place that was marginally acceptable. From
there I could see ahead a ways and determine that no
better site would be reached before nightfall.  I had
learned that as a guide it is necessary to be decisive
and positive, especially at the end of a long day.  As
the group straggled into “Windy Camp,” they saw that
it would be close quarters but were collectively very
happy to be “home” for the evening, and when Jan
arrived, he agreed with my decision.  The alpenglow on
the towering peaks to the east provided ample
entertainment as he and I prepared dinner.  

photos property of tim bluhm.